GE Slide-in Gas Ranges oven shut down

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GE Slide-in Gas Ranges oven shut down


Problem: Bake and Broil operations shut down when temperature reaches approximately 250F. If the selected bake or broil function operates for a short period of time and then shuts down, the problem is not with the ERC. A problem may exist with the cooling blower motor or the motor wiring.

Repair Procedure:

  1. Enter the range ERC’s Fault Retrieval Mode to display the hidden fault codes (see unit’s Mini-Manual). Fault code F350 will likely be displayed. This indicates the ERC has detected the cooling fan blower wheel is not turning as fast as it should or is not turning at all.
  2. After cycling power to the range, enter the ERC’s Service (Test) Mode. Activate the cooling blower at low speed for a few seconds by pressing ‘3’.If the blower, which is visible through the vent trim at rear of maintop, fails to spin or spins very slowly, investigate the cause by removing the range maintop. Inspect the blower wheel for obstruction by wire routing, foreign objects or insulation pressing on the red silicone hub of the blower wheel and repair as needed. The blower wheel should rotate freely by hand without noise or undue friction.
  3. Verify wiring connections to the low speed (black wire) and high speed (red wire) tabs of the blower motor. Verify wiring connection to the Neutral (white wire) of the blower motor. Verify the gray plastic 6-pin connector is completely connected. If either of these checks fails the problem is in the wiring or connectors going to the blower motor.
  4. Reactivate the cooling blower in the Service Mode and check for 120 volts AC to the low speed tab (black wire) and the neutral tab (white wire) of the blower motor (see strip circuit below). Check for good connection and voltage at door lock motor switch and J903 pin 1 on RC17 machine board on rear of unit. If 120 volts is not present from J903 pin 1 to neutral when cooling fan is on in service mode, replace the machine board.
  5. Disconnect power and check for resistance between white to red (~ 31 ohms) and white to black (~ 47 ohms) on the blower motor. If all wiring checks are correct and the blower wheel rotates freely, replace the blower motor assembly (BLOWER TANGENTIAL – WB26X29060) by removing the four hex-head screws that attach the assembly to the blower shroud. The upper back wire cover and the right side panel will have to loosened to remove and replace the blower assembly.

Service Bulletin RA02-18

Disclaimer: The Technical Reference Materials (hereinafter “Materials”) at this site are intended for viewing and use by qualified appliance service technicians. If you do not possess sufficient mechanical and electrical skills and the ability to comprehend, understand and follow all safety warnings and cautions on the product in these Materials, do not attempt to undertake the repairs that are depicted in these Materials. MD Appliance LLC disclaims any and all liability, to the fullest extent permitted by law, arising out of your use of the site and Materials.

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Comments (6)

  • Dr. Sylvia A. Diaz Reply

    Really disappointed that a Brand new Oven would have this problem

    September 26, 2020 at 3:04 pm
    • John Reply

      I work in a retirnment commmunity and have around 130 ge stoves. Nearly all have this code from the factory due to foam from shipping materials getting down into the fan and stopping it.

      October 5, 2020 at 7:58 am
  • Sharron Ferguson Reply

    GE stove ( oven ) 11/2 years in my house has been displaying F350 and turning called Capital
    City Appliance Columbus Ohio. After labor parts and tax at 346.97 it still displays F350 I called CCA again and they will be back. What really is the problem ?

    April 8, 2021 at 10:36 am
    • Steve Shearer Reply

      Please see my reply regarding the Hall effect sensor

      May 3, 2021 at 9:23 am
  • Steve Shearer Reply

    I understand that this is quite a common fault on these cookers. I had this problem on a new cooker I recently bought. The fault appeared occasionally about a month after we purchased and became increasingly worse.
    It was under warranty and when the tech came to fix it we noticed that the new fan unit had no hall effect sensor. We decided to swap the old sensor to the new unit.

    I examined the pcb under the microscope – it looked good. Then I noticed that there are two ways of fitting the board.
    In one orientation the Hall effect sensor is lined up with the bottom edge of the magnets in the rotor – except not really convincingly. This is how the original unit was assembled.
    Flipping the board over alligns the Hall sensor exactly in the middle of the magnets, so this is how we mounted it and it fixed the problem.

    My conjecture is that these board are incorrectly mounted in the factory resulting in Hall effect sensors that don’t really get the full magnetic field to do their work because they are right at the end of the magnets. It is on the brink of operation so many do work for a time or fail occasionally.

    Mounting the board correctly so the the sensor gets the full magnetic field fixes the problem.

    May 3, 2021 at 9:21 am
  • Alan Reply

    Fails to mention how you out range into ERC test mode?? Can someone tell me please?

    July 24, 2021 at 6:50 am

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